Arles is a lovely town nestled along the Rhone River in southern France. Its historic center encapsulates small town French charm. Its vibrant colors, magnificent sites and quaint cafe terraces have inspired famous artists like Vincent Van Gogh, Paul Gaugin and countless others. Arles also features a nearly 2,000 year old Roman amphitheater, modeled after the Colosseum in Rome.
Getting to Arles, France
Arles is around a 45 minute train ride from Marseilles, which is the second largest city in France. It’s also only around a 17 minute train ride from Avignon, another popular destination with a high speed TGV train stop just outside its center. You can also reach Arles from Lyon, France in around 2 hours via high speed rail.
Much of Arles’ historic center is pedestrian only. So if you’re driving and staying in the historic center, know that you will likely need to plan to park your vehicle outside the city center.
Arles is also a popular Rhone river cruise destination. During the 3 days I spent in Arles, I saw Viking and other river cruise ships. Fortunately, river cruises generally have a maximum capacity of around 180 passengers. So their presence does not overwhelm destinations the same way multiple cruise ships carrying thousands of passengers flood popular destinations like Venice, Santorini and elsewhere.
Vincent Van Gogh in Arles
Vincent Van Gogh lived with his brother Theo in the artistic Montmartre district of Paris for two years. This period allowed him to be influenced by impressionist artists, as well as connecting with fellow artists like Paul Gaugin.
Vincent Van Gogh left Paris for Arles in February 1888. He sought the vibrant colors, light and warmer weather in the South of France. He envisioned establishing an artist’s community in Arles. His brother Theo, an art dealer, paid rent for a house for Vincent to live and work from. In October 1888, fellow notable impressionist Paul Gaugin joined him in Arles.
The 15 months Van Gogh spent in Arles were the most prolific period of his career. He painted around 300 works there in a frenzy of inspiration. Van Gogh embraced a dynamic style featuring bold colors inspired by Provençal light and Japanese prints. A few famous masterpieces from his time in Arles includes Starry Night Over the Rhône, The Night Café and Sunflowers.
Unfortunately, Van Gogh’s time in Arles also included his famous mental breakdown where he cut off a piece of his own ear. He was treated at the hospital in Arles, and painting its lovely courtyard while he was recovering. The former hospital courtyard is now the Espace Van Gogh, where visitors can even sit at an adjacent cafe terrace and enjoy the view over a crepe and coffee. Shortly after this episode, Van Gogh was committed to a mental institution in Saint Remy, which is around 30 minutes from Arles.
The Van Gogh Route
The Van Gogh Route is a popular route in Arles, France that guides visitors to important landmarks where Vincent Van Gogh painted some of his most renown paintings. Several locations on the trail, including where Van Gogh painted The Night Cafe (a personal favorite of mine), feel like stepping into the vibrancy of his colorful artistic brilliance.
Another favorite spot on the Van Gogh Route is Espace Van Gogh. The former hospital courtyard is lovely. Albeit it there isn’t much to do there asides from snapping a few photos and contemplating one of his most personally significant paintings, Hospital in Arles. You can do this over a lunch or a coffee at the adjacent vegan restaurant or the creperie.
I appreciated that the courtyard of Espace Van Gogh was not overrun with tourists on the pleasant mid-October day I visited. There were only a handful of other visitors roaming the courtyard amidst sunny blue skies and idyllic autumn weather. I spent awhile contemplating Van Gogh’s personal struggles and marveling at the similarity between his Hospital in Arles painting and how the space looks 136 years later.
Van Gogh’s Most Noteworthy Arles Paintings
Originally from the Netherlands, Vincent Van Gogh lived in 21 European cities in villages. But his 15 months living in Arles were the most prolific of his inspiring 37 year life. Here’s a few highlights.
Cafe Terrace at Night
Arles’ Place du Forum is a lovely square lined with cafes and restaurants. Van Gogh’s painting captures the charm of one of the cafes, with a starry night sky above. The cafe, painted in yellow, still exists today. I highly recommend having lunch or a drink at one of the nearby restaurants or cafes and comparing the scene with Van Gogh’s painting.
Les Alycamps
Vincent Van Gogh and Paul Gaugin painted Alycamps side by side in late October 1888. The Roman necropolis is located just outside the center of Arles. The painting exhibits vibrant autumn foliage at what’s now a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its historical and artistic significance. Alycamps is also mentioned in Dantes Inferno.
Les Arènes
Van Gogh’s painting Les Arènes depicts a packed crowd at the large Roman amphitheater in the center of town. The amphitheater still hosts bullfighting events during the season, as it did during Van Gogh’s time in Arles. The meat from those bullfights are sold to local restaurants for Guardian bull meat stew (Gardiane de Taureau). The rich stew, served with rice, is a dish I recommend enjoying during a visit.
Starry Night over the Rhône
The Rhône River winds through Arles, offering some lovely photo opportunities. It’s peaceful to stroll along the river, day or night. As lights reflect off the Rhône River at night, Van Gogh was especially inspired to depict this scene at night.
Other Notable Van Gogh Paintings in Arles
Don’t bother searching for The Yellow House, where Van Gogh resided. The building no longer exists. That’s probably unsurprising given Van Gogh’s frequent complaints with his landlord.
Arles Hotel Recommendations
There are a number of charming boutique hotels and apartments in Arles. I enjoyed my stay at centrally located Hotel Present – Encore Mieux. The modern hotel blends 70’s chic inspired decor with self check-in. The Bed was extremely comfy and the mid-October stay is great value for money. Bookings include a simple but tasty complimentary continental breakfast with delicious fresh croissants, boiled eggs, meats, cheeses and jams.
I did have a problem accessing the front door one night with my phone. But I called the company’s phone number and a representative based in Bordeaux was able to guide me through alternative access in English.
Arles, France Recap
Arles is a lovely town to absorb the charm of southern France. I spent three days there and could have stayed longer. It’s easy to see why famous artists like Vincent Van Gogh and Paul Gaugin were inspired to paint there. Today Van Gogh’s legacy lives on in tribute as well as a major inspiration for current and future artists from around the world.
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